![]() ![]() Mine doesn't come on until nearly 9V so my coil may be a bit dead at the lower end. This will also help identify dead spots in the rheostat. Here I have done a light bulb test by tying a power supply, #57 bulb, and voltmeter into the circuit. If it fails this test, replace the switch. Check the coil carefully for breaks or corrosion. Continue turning counter-clockwise and you will see the resistance drop until it reaches 0 ohms: You may also find dead spots, depending on the condition of the rheostat coil. Slowly turn the rheostat counter-clockwise and eventually you will get a reading in ohms. With the switch fully clockwise and turned on to either parking light or headlight, there should be no conductivity: Move your lead to the blue red-stripe connector that is attached to the wiper contact. The ceramic wheel has a notch in it that turns on the switch. Move your lead to the black blue-stripe connector and turn the switch completely counter-clockwise. ![]() I would think the front parking lights should stay on. Apparently the parking lights turn off when the headlights turn on. However, with the switch full on there is no conductivity. ![]() It is the one at a slight angle.Īt the parking switch position I found full conductivity: Leave your lead on the yellow red-stripe connector and move the other lead to black yellow-stripe. There should be full conductivity at both parking and headlight switch positions. Move the clip leads to the yellow red-stripe and black wire contacts. The next test is for the rear tail lights. Turn the switch to the full on position and there is full conductivity. Note the contacts are yellow to red yellow-stripe This is how my meter reads with an open circuit. The contact on the right comes from the 15A fuse in the fuse box. Now that the switch is out, reconnect the battery and measure for 12V at these two locations. As best I can tell, the headlight circuit is protected by a circuit breaker inside the switch as I could not find any other protection in the circuit diagram. The yellow wire for the headlights and the yellow red-stripe for everything else. To summarize, there are two sources of 12V. Now that contacts are known, the switch can be tested. This is how it corresponds on the switch: Based on the wiring diagrams I have, this is how it is wired. Reinstall just the shaft into the switch. I inserted a phillilps screwdriver that was tight in the hole and it easily unscrewed. Then you will find this odd shape that was probably for a specialty tool. I found that there was a "sweet spot" just before the button is completely depressed that released the shaft. With the switch in the on position, gently pull on the shaft and press the button. ![]() To remove the switch shaft, there is a button on the bottom center of the switch. There are two clips that hold the connector onto the switch. So I carefully removed the gauge and set it aside. It looked to me that the left gauge bezel would be the easiest way to get to it. There are a lot of images here so bear with me. So I decided it was time to dive in and learn how to remove it and test it. I have three wiring diagrams in front of me, and each one is a bit different. It has a connector junction that provides 12V to the stop light circuit. It turns on the dash lights and dims them.ĥ. It turns on the front parking lights and the rear taillights as two separate circuits.ģ. It turns on the headlights without a relay.Ģ. Although there can be many points of failure, the headlight switch seems central to check first, as it performs many functions.ġ. There have been some questions from several forum members lately regarding headlights, parking, and dash lights not working. ![]()
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